Latkrabang

Latkrabang is a suburb of Bangkok, on the east-side. Pia's family lives there, and so do we when we're in Thailand. It's our second home, or maybe our first. We live on Soi Onnut, a soi is a side-way of a main road. In 1987 Soi Onnut was a small road with only two lanes, but in 2000 it has became a highway with six lanes. We live about 16 km out of Bangkok, in the house of Pia's mother. Luckily the house is not near the road, but 500 metres away from it, and half above a klong, very near Wat Soong, a local temple. Everything is happening outside, near or above the water, eating, taking care of the children, washing your clothes, washing the dog, . . . . .

The klong is also a kind of road, many boats pass, sometimes rowing boats, but most of the time long-tail boats with very powerfull and very noisy, old car engines. Sometimes a fisherman passes by, catching fish in the vegetation on the side of the klong, most of the time in a boat, but one uses a surfboard.

In Holland, the baker and the greengrocer come to your house by road. In Thailand they come by water.
Tahoen is someone special. Tahoun is a man who lives near Wat Soong. Every morning, for more than 30 years, he steps in his little boat. In this boat, there is a stove with a large kettle of clear soup on it. In a number of small drawers and pots, he has noodles, herbs, meat, sauces, daily made or bought fresh. When he passes by you can order a plate of noodles, five or six different kinds. Fresh made while you wait, and delicious. Since 2002 Tahoen stopped preparing noodles. He has bought a new house, and he is now retired.

The house of Pia's mother is not very comfortable. Everything is available, a televison, a refrigerator, a washing machine, a computer. But no good chairs, you just sit on the ground. And no hot water and no good shower, just a big tub with water and a little pan. Because the house is partly built above the water, there are a lot of mosquitos at sunrise and sundown. The boats on the water usually make a lot of noise, the neighbours have cocks, that start to crow very early in the morning. Sometimes there are noisy parties, in Wat Soong or with the neigbours. Sometimes the roof is leaking, or there is no water or electricity. Sometimes there is a snake in the toilet annex bathroom.
But nevertheless we don't want to live somewhere else. The atmosphere, the conviviality, you'll find it nowhere else. And those parties, fun, just buy a bottle of whiskey and invite yourself.

Wat Soong, 500 meters on foot, is the local temple. On Bhuddist or National festal days, there are festivities. Tom is the only white person there, and that's great fun. People are very curious, they want to know a lot. With help from Pia and with sign-language Tom usually can answer all the questions. And then, Tom has to take a drink, most of the time local liquor (lao kao), it's a bit like gin. At these festivities there are hundreds of people, there is music, an open-air cinema, an open-air disco, all at the same time, and very loud. And of course there is plenty of food, sate, noodles, curries, sweets, . . . . .

Latkrabang, in any case the location where Pia's mother lives, has changed a lot during 2002. Most of the aunts and uncles, who lived very near, moved, and their houses are demolished. Part of the house of Pia's mother has been torn down, the part that stands above the water is still there. Most trees and plants are gone as well, only bare earth. Very sad!

The reason for al this is actually very simple. Pia's family, grandparents, uncles, aunts, . . . . , settled on that place about 50 years ago, they did not own the property, but the owner agreed. A written agreement never was neccesary, and everybody was happy. The owner has passed away, and his children had other plans with their property. They offered the family a rental agreement, for the period of one year, and after each year a new agreement was offered. The family was happy, at last they had an official agreement.
But there was one nasty thing. Thai law offers persons with a rental agreement for the period of two years a lot of protection, if you have to leave, the owner must offer you another good place to live, and has to compensate you for the cost you make to move and rebuild your house. But if you have a rental agreement for the period of one year, you have almost no protection at all.
Most of the family found another good place to live, and those who haven't yet still have enough time to fine such a place, but that makes it not less sad.

Part of the old house is still there. Pia's mother still lives there, together with Pia's brother and one of her grandchildren. But we can't stay there anymore, there is not enough room. So now we have to stay in the house of Nok Ten, one of Pia's sisters, a few kilometers closer to Bangkok.

In april 2006 we heard that people are making threads at Pia's mother. So now she has moved out of the old house and is living with Nok Ten. It makes us sad . . . .